We recently had a friend visit us out here in Slovenia, and we decided to sandwich a visit to Belgrade in between. A great time was had, but we had one stumbling block in Serbia; our friend is a vegetarian. Of course, this attracted a variety of questions and queries from the wonderful people of that meat lovers paradise, but we decided that the best course of action was to stick to the kitchen and make our own meals.
We aren’t about to claim that Slovenia is a vegetarian’s paradise, but as with many aspects of the modern world Slovenia is a fairly progressive place when it comes to sourcing non-meat based food. Cuisine in Slovenia takes on as big a variety of influences as one would expect from the country, with cues taken from Italy, Austria, Hungary and the Slavic nations to the south. This leads to a fine mix of flavours and interesting dishes, a huge amount of which certainly appeal to vegetarians.
This doesn’t apply to all dishes of course. You’d be hard-pushed to find a vegetarian kranjska klobasa of course, but many traditional classics either come in vegetarian form or are easily amended to please the palette of the herbivore. The most common of these are ajdovi žganci (a buckwheat dish not dissimilar to Polenta), Idrijski žlikrofi (dumplings, often topped with breadcrumbs) and our particular favourite, štruklji (rolled dough with a variety of fillings). When we say ‘a variety of fillings’ there, we aren’t joking; the possibilities are endless.
The Italian influence on Slovenian cuisine is particularly telling here, as the vast majority of restaurants will have a number of pizzas, pastas and risottos on the menu. Still, one doesn’t need to rely on the old standards when in Ljubljana, as the growing number of inventive chefs mean you will certainly encounter some vegetarian dishes that you couldn’t prepare even in your wildest dreams, although if you’re cooking in your dreams you probably can’t describe them as being wild.
Ljubljana isn’t awash with restaurants specifically set up for vegetarians, but the vast majority of places will have a decent variety of options available. Strangely, Ljubljana also has a strong crew of vegetarian takeaway-type spots, perfect for those looking for an injection of health after a hefty night on the sauce. More and more spots are introducing veggie specials into their lunch menus too, meaning finding vegetarian food in town isn’t going to be a taxing experience.
Of course, for many being vegetarian is an ethical decision as opposed to a dietary one, and Ljubljana is full of festivals and events along these lines. The Slovenian Vegan Society is particularly active, and its website is full of useful information, links and much more. The website also covers the entire country, not just Ljubljana.
There will always be room for improvement of course, but Slovenia (and Ljubljana in particular) are as forward-thinking with regards to vegetarianism as it gets in the Slavic world. You’ll have no Jonathan Safran Foer in Everything is Illuminated moments where you are asked if that means you eat pork, and your taste buds will certainly be surprised and elated at what awaits you. Dober tek!
is a small restaurant with a big heart and plenty of healthy food without animal products, white flour, white sugar, artificial colouring or flavours. If you are looking for a healthy option head along to Ajdovo Zrno for a fresh, delicious and sustainable lunch. A relaxing nook with a cute terrace just steps from Prešeren square, the restaurant serves daily cooked and raw meals - gluten free options also available - plus they have the biggest and perhaps the best salad bar in town and tasty sweets among which the chocolate brownie and baklava are a must.
After a night out in Ljubljana you may wonder how the locals keep so trim and seem to shake off hangovers. Our own secret: healthy eating and smiles, both of which are in abundance at Barbarella Arkade Bistro. Located by the Central Market in Plečnik’s arcade, this newly opened café has a full vegan menu with soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, cookies and cakes, along with smoothies, teas, coffees (milk on request), juices, and beers. With outside seating so you can enjoy the view, this is, truth be told, not only one of the few vegan cafés in town, but one of the best cafés overall. Chef Barbarella also offers a light and vibrant breakfast menu to start the day off right, no matter how your evening ended.
A Mecca for lovers of fresh, healthy, organic foods, Bazilika is located in a beautiful high-ceilinged space in the city centre opposite the Presidential Palace and just around the corner from the Academy of Fine Arts. While countless proprietors claim to use only fresh locally-sourced ingredients, Bazilika actually posts photos of daily visits to local farmers, markets and gardens to their social media pages, assuring patrons that the various sandwiches, sweet and savoury pies, salads, soups, smoothies and other vegetarian and vegan-friendly treats that they turn out are as authentic as they are delectable. Daily 3-course lunch specials are written on the roll of brown recycled paper behind the counter.
Govinda's - Tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood just north of the city centre, this oasis comes complete with a peaceful garden and is steeped in good karma. As well as being family friendly, students are looked after with generous portions, pregnant women get a 25% discount and it is animal friendly aka vegetarian. The daily buffet features a range of cuisines including excellent Indian, and even meat-lovers will enjoy the wholesome and delectable vegetarian (vegan & gluten free) delights.
The world's fastest growing (and perhaps only) international vegan fast food chain, Loving Hut has outlets in dozen of countries, each with its own unique menu. Located opposite the main bus and train station, stepping inside this oasis of peacefulness and serenity makes us feel healthier and more relaxed before we even order. Offering an assortment of vegan dishes, including surprisingly delicious kebaps, burgers and Wiener schnitzel, Loving Hut is an attractive alternative to the usual fast food options found in these parts - even for non-vegans like us.