In a remote corner of Slovenia’s Dolenjska region, abutting a forest, curious visitors may stumble upon an ancient monastery. They won’t be allowed to enter, but if they listen closely late at night, they may hear the sound of centuries-old religious chanting emanating from the chapel’s thick stone walls.
The Pleterje Charterhouse was founded in 1403 by Count Hermann II, one of the influential Counts of Celje, as the home of the Carthusian order. The Carthusians are one of the strictest monastic orders anywhere. They devote most of their life to study and solitary prayer, and leave their cells only three times a day for communal prayer accompanied by age-old chanting. They may exchange words during occasional walks, but otherwise spent most of their time in complete silence.
The Carthusians tend to live as independently of the outside world as possible, but throughout history, the outside world has rarely left them alone. In the 15th century, the charterhouse was subject to frequent Turkish incursions and was even destroyed in one of the attacks. In the late 16th century, after a period of decline, the charterhouse was given to the Jesuits and then frequently changed hands, switching from state to private ownership.
In 1899, almost half a millennium after its founding, the old charterhouse was reacquired by French Carthusians who had been expelled from Bosserville near Nancy. The monastery was rebuilt by a French architect named Jean-François Pichat, who integrated various elements of the old charterhouse, including its historic chapel, into the new structure. After centuries of disuse, Pleterje once again welcomed Carthusian monks from across Europe to its cells.
During World War II, the Carthusians gave aid to the Partisan resistance. But after their charterhouse was taken over by the pro-Fascist Legion of Death, the Partisans burned down most of the monastery.
After the war, the charterhouse was rebuilt. Life for the monks became more difficult, however. Even though they Carthusians had helped the Partisans, the Communist authorities forced all foreign monks to leave; they also nationalized a part of the charterhouse’s estate.
Despite the hardships, the order survived and the world’s most easterly charterhouse is now a popular tourist destination. Visitors are not allowed inside the monastery walls, but they can tour a part of the estate and purchase a number of products produced by the monks – from fruit and honey to candles and liquor. Based on ancient methods passed down in the order through the centuries, the monastery’s products are renowned for their excellence and are sold throughout the country.
The monastery grounds are also the home of an open-air museum. Traditional homes from around the region have been brought to the estate and visitors are encouraged to enter the old buildings, in which they can get a sense for everyday life as it existed decades ago. Meanwhile, in the monastery cells, the Carthusian monks continue to lead a lifestyle unchanged for centuries in their quest for spiritual peace and a closer connection to God.