At first glance, Ljubljana’s newest Indian restaurant may not seem like a centuries-old institution. However its modern appearance and cosmopolitan menu belies its heritage as one of the city’s oldest continuously operating restaurants, with a history as old as the United States of America.
Figovec opened its doors between 1776 and 1786 as a coaching inn. It was ideally situated in the very center of town, and the inn became a must-stop for coaches, carriages, and wagons passing through central Slovenia. It even had a 40-horse stable on premises.
Figovec also became a popular meeting place for the people of Ljubljana, especially for drivers of carts who made Figovec their home away from home. Even the famed Slovenian poet France Prešeren was among the inn’s regulars in the early 19th century.
The quality of Figovec’s food ensured that its reputation survived the passage of generations. Guests could order dishes from around the Austro-Hungarian Empire: tripe, goulash, and Wienerschnitzel emerged as timeless classics. Figovec’s Wienerschnitzels in particular were renowned for their impressive size.
One of Figovec’s greatest assets – its location on a major Ljubljana intersection – turned out to be a liability on the wake of World War II. When the authorities decided to expand the intersection in 1951, they tore down the original Figovec building. The institution itself, however, survived the march of progress; it simply moved into a building next door.
The changing habits of local residents turned out to be an altogether more serious challenge. The social focus of Ljubljana gradually turned to the Ljubljanica River, and Figovec’s location became less and less fashionable. After Slovenia’s independence, the inn also found it harder to compete with the cosmopolitan choice of restaurants and more modern establishments specializing in fresh interpretations of Slovenian classics. In the new millennium, Figovec found itself in a dilapidated condition with large chunks of stucco falling from the building’s façade.
In 2014, Figovec underwent the biggest transformation in its history: It became an Indian curry restaurant partnered with UK-based CurryLife. While some observers welcomed the new addition to the capital’s dining scene, others were dismayed by the disappearance of a Ljubljana landmark.
Recognizing Figovec’s heritage, the new management decided to keep the restaurant’s old name – and to include a very special nod to history: Wienerschnitzels and goulash have retained their place on the menu alongside curries and tandoori dishes.