Over the years, the Slovenian town of Ptuj has become famous for its “kurent” masks, which mark the beginning of the Lenten season. On the other side of Slovenia, however, another town organizes a carnival whose origins are just as ancient.
“Laufarija,” celebrated in the small town of Cerkno in western Slovenia, is closely associated with Lent, but it actually begins on the first Sunday after New Year. That’s when the first masked creature known as a “laufar” appears on the streets. He is joined by more monsters every Sunday until Fat Tuesday (or Shrovetide), when the festivities culminate in an ancient performance.
The exact origins of “Laufarija” are unknown. Some believe the tradition was introduced by German immigrants from Tyrol in the 14th century, but many of its elements date back to Pagan times – just like most traditional celebrations used to welcome in spring. Still, “Laufarija” is unique because of the large cast of characters participating in the festivities: Some of the “laufars” wear linen fibers, while others are clad in ivy or spruce branches. A few are relatively recent additions, bust most date back to pre-Christian rites of spring. Wearing characteristic masks made out of linden wood, the creatures represent various human temperaments: Some are horrifying and love to scare children, while others are jolly harbingers of spring. A few are fast runners – hence the name “laufar” -- from the German “laufen,” to run.
The event culminates with the banishment of a figure known as Pust. The monster, wearing moss and horns, is formally charged with all the sins and misfortunes of the preceding year. He is convicted to death and is led on a death march, during which he is guarded by the other “laufars,” each playing its role. After Pust is killed, he is laid to rest in a nearby inn.
After being performed for centuries, “Laufarija” was banned during the interwar Italian occupation of Cerkno. It was revived in the 1950s by Peter Brelih and a small group of enthusiasts. Since few details about “Laufarija” had ever been written down, the team relied on older townsfolk who still remembered the procession and the characteristic masks from their childhoods. Against all odds, the revival was a success, and “Laufarija” is now one of the region’s most popular celebrations. It announces the end of winter just as it did centuries ago, when ancient Pagan beliefs still ruled the European continent.